One Year On

It's hard to believe that I have been living in Saudi Arabia for almost one full year. It's strange to think how different life has become. It's interesting to note that wherever you go, the one thing that doesn't change really, is you.

I don't mean that thoughts, opinions, interests, relationships or even beliefs don't change, but there is something quite inherently me that, despite my travels and my change of circumstances, has remained consistent. I still need to be planned and organised with plans for a day off or I will literally sit and do nothing. I still fart around, procrastinating while leaving the more complicated or uninteresting stuff to gather dust in the hope that it will go away. However I still love getting to know new people, and enjoy helping people connect and become friends. I am a thoroughly people person who, while I enjoy my time on my own much more than I ever used to, thrive when I am in and around others with whom I share a common interest or purpose.

Not just my location has changed however. I left a busy, intense church and church family to live in a country where, while I am allowed to follow my own faith, there are no churches and congregational worship is generally 'discouraged'. I left a situation where the majority of my friends were Christian, and where I found it difficult to make time for activities out with what had become quite a substantial bubble. Don't get me wrong, I love many of these people dearly, and think about them often, but there was something that just didn't make sense to me. Christ said that his yoke was easy and his burden was light, yet I found that life had become very heavy. I don't think I realised how much, until on my recent return to see friends, almost everyone commented on how much more relaxed and happy I had become.

Does this mean that I have abandoned my faith? Not at all! However I am beginning to see things differently. This process had begun before I left, but continues as I walk through my time here.

I have also found it really refreshing to have friends who share different beliefs and views to me. It has been great to learn more about Islam, and what it means to be Muslim. I am by no means expert and in fact still find myself confused and frustrated at many aspects of it, but appreciate the opportunity to learn from experience instead of by misinformation.

I have learned that many things we automatically assume about faith is often cultural. There are many practices here that in the west we think are synonymous with Islam, but are in fact merely cultural norms for people living in the Middle East. I imagine the same is also true of our own society and culture. Things we often assume are Christian, are merely the way things have always been done. We only need to look as far as our celebrations of Christmas and Easter to find that they replaced traditionally pagan festivals.

Anyway, that will help to put you in the picture of how this year has impacted me. The baggage has been left behind, and I am on a journey of discovery and rediscovery.

An old hill-fort near Usfan

Saudi is a fascinating country, traditionally thought to be filled with endless sand dunes, camels and bedouin men living in tents. While these are true understandings in part, it is much more than that. I have learned that the country itself is roughly one hundred years old (give or take). For centuries it has been occupied by bedouin tribes, but has been rules by various different people groups. There is evidence of this in some of the old architecture and other such structures. There are abandoned churches, wells, and forts. Some of the wells and forts made up the routes of the ancient Hajj trails when the Turks would travel to Makkah with their camels. They dug wells and channels to provide water for their camels and forts to provide safe shelter for their groups.

Makkah is probably about the same distance from Jeddah as Edinburgh is from Glasgow. Some people commute from here to there and vice versa. It is a no-go zone for non-Muslims, which I find frustrating as I would love to visit and learn more about what makes it so special. I can also understand how it is considered sacred and why it is protected in such a way. I have heard that it is possible to visit, however I would have to have special permission from the King who is considered the Guardian of the Two Holy Mosques, Makkah and Medinah. It is also frustrating as when I make friends with people from Makkah, I have to rely on their ability to travel to Jeddah to be able to see them.

While driving past Makkah, on the non-Muslim by-pass, I can glance over, through the hills that surround it and see some of the lights, and catch a glimpse of the clock tower which stands tall above the other buildings there, and is illuminated so can be seen from quite a distance.

One of the Mosques in the Ta'if Old Town

Saudi Arabia can throw up some wonderful surprises though. A town I have visited several times is around one and a half times higher than the peak of Ben Nevis. You reach the top of the winding escarpment road to find a huge plateau covered in small towns, which largely are joined together these days to make up Taif. It is a more conservative town, but also seems more organised, cleaner and better thought out. It is much cooler up there also so, while it still receives much less rain than in the UK, is the major hub of farming in the country and many delicious fruits and vegetables can be found there, along with delicious honey.

Looking out over Wadi Mehrim

The surrounding areas ascends even higher and awe inspiring views can be found that look down into the Wadis which are river valleys which for most of the year are dry, but come alive during the rain. On a hike one day we found beautiful red dragon flies, tadpoles and frogs and numerous plants that can't be seen elsewhere. Don't get me wrong, it is still huge heaps of rock, but the variety of rock to be found in one area is even quite fascinating. These mountains are also home to many large, red bottomed baboons.

You can go higher still to places like Ab'ha, that I am still to visit, where they even will get snow in the winter months.

A friendly clownfish I met on my first dive

Jeddah also sits beside the Red Sea, where I have learned to dive. The lack of wildlife on land is more that made up for by the absolute wealth of wildlife under the sea. From tiny clownfish, to enormous whalesharks, dolphins, crabs, starfish and coral, all in colours you wouldn't imagine. Many of these can even be seen on a short swim from the shore without the need for diving equipment, but when you go under the water you enter another world of beauty and tranquility.

What do you call an exploding monkey?

Head along the coast to Mastourah, Rabigh, and Yanbu, and you find more and more delights. No two dives are the same so there is always something new to see.

Over the first few days of Eid, I am travelling to Bahrain and heading back, by car with some friends where we will explore some caves and an underground lake.

I haven't yet scratched the surface of what there is to see and do here in and around Jeddah, and what I have shared thus far is only a fraction of what I have experienced so far. I hope to try and pick up my blogger's hat more frequently to share about the exciting, often funny and fascinating experiences I have here. I hope that in some way, I manage to break down some of the preconceptions that people have of this fascinating country and a people that are so very often misunderstood.

King of the Road, without a suitcase!

On Thursday 26th of August, after a lovely, but stressful day I drove off in my parents car and left Glasgow, with a deputation of my friends and their kids waving me off. I must admit it took me all I had to hold back the tears. I've never been known for my lack of emotion.

Friends had pulled out all the stops to help me get organised and it was a reminder of the life I have built with these guys. When I moved to Glasgow in 1995 the internet (as we know it) was in its infancy. I was amazed at the prospect of email on an old Sun Mircosystems machine. Now though I can keep in touch with all these guys so easily and have been blessed to talk to so many of them already through Skype.

I've also been able to make friends with people I'll be working with through Facebook. So as I got chatting to one of them this morning I discovered that she and her husband live across the street. They have been so helpful and neighbourly already, lending me clothes as my case is still missing, taking me to the shops and showing me around. If this is how things continue then through this adventure I am going to make a whole new group of friends here in Saudi to add to the ones I have at home.

So it's been good so far. I flew from Edinburgh to Paris and the flight was delayed due to stormy weather in Paris. This almost made me miss my flight there but thankfully I caught it as it was also slightly behind. I was amazed at the difference in the Saudi Airlines plane. It was no where near capacity, with lots of space between the seats. Everybody had a pillow and a blanket on their seats. Maybe it is the difference between short and long haul, but it was nice.

I was soooo tired as I couldn't really sleep the night before and I struggled to nod off while flying. Many of the other passengers had the right idea and pushed up the armrests and stretched out on the seats. It was funny to see. Unfortunately, because of where my seat was, the armrests were fixed.

I got chatting to a really nice chap from Medina. A young dermatologist who has just got a job in Germany. His wife had just had a baby 8 days before. He had then flown out for his interview. He was keen to get back to see his son, but he was extremely talkative and eager to tell me what I'd love about Saudi.

When we eventually arrived the landing was amazing. This city just spread into the distance. It was lit up in the dark so you could easily tell where it just suddenly stopped at the edges. It was so colourful and brightly lit.

Next however was getting through customs! I got a bit diorientated and couldn't work out which queue I was to join. When I got to the desk eventually he told me to go and fill out a card. When I found the cards, I filled it out the best I could. I was encouraged by the warning of the penalty of death for drug smuggling. Good job I'm a good, clean living kinds guy ;-)

When I joined the queue again, a new flight had arrived, full of orientals. These were all men who had towels wrapped around their waists and wore another towel over their naked torsos. I don't know how that works with Saudi decency laws. It certainly didn't seem to stop them getting through but it just took forever.

So they took scans of all my fingers and thumbs, my photograph also and they let me through. PHEW!!! I was getting worried about how I would meet my driver by this point but I had to go and collect my case. That was a problem though because when I finally got to the baggage reclaim my case wasn't there and I still don't have it.

A representative from the school called to see where I was and I explained so when I finally registered my lost case I managed to meet my driver who had been waiting an incredibly long time for me.

I'm gonna leave it there for now and complete my saga tomorrow. However I am currently sitting in borrowed clothes, still not having my case. I'm itching to get in one of the various pools so will need to try and find some swimming shorts tomorrow.

Davey's on the Road Again

You know, it's times like this when you realise that people really care! I've never had a child but I imagine that what I've experienced the last few days has been a bit like that. Infact I think I may have a child just to relive the amazing friendship that has been poured out to me the last few days. Any volunteers to help with that?

I have had people come round to mow the lawn, paper the hall, clean my flat from to to bottom, take me to Ikea, B&Q, etc etc. I have enjoyed numerous gifts, cards and so forth and have had meals out, meals in, drinks bought, tears shed, hugs given and messages of support up to my ears.

With all of this it's a miracle I haven't decided to stay after all, but then it isn't friendship that is taking me away, but a chance at adventure and experience of new cultures, a chance to grow emotionally, professionally, and spiritually. I can't wait to see new sights, hear new sounds, and taste new tastes. I am looking forward to stepping out of all my familiar comfort zones.

All of this will be made all the easier by the knowledge that, back home in Glasgow I have family and friends rooting and praying for me. Friends like these don't grow on trees, but, like trees many of them have taken many years to cultivate and bring to a place of real maturity. So while all my friendships are important to me, it is these guys I have built life with through thick and thin over the last 15 years that I am truly going to miss. You are also my brothers and sisters and I will miss you very much! So you'd better flippin skype me :-) !!!!!

Learning How To Fly

Hey, I'm about to set off on the biggest adventure of my life... so far. On Friday I fly to Jeddah Saudi Arabia to take up a 2 year teaching post. I'm pretty much leaving everything behind except 23kgs of luggage and my hand baggage. I can't flippin wait. I'm gonna use this blog to keep folks up to date on all of my adventures, thoughts and musings. I hope you enjoy reading.