The Land Between Two Sea

I never knew much about Bahrain before I came to Saudi. I knew it was a relatively rich country in the Gulf, but that was about the extent of my knowledge. Once I got here I learned that it is a popular bolt hole for Expats and Saudis who are looking for a drink or perhaps a night out of partying. I did neither of these things while there but left with a strong desire to go back and learn more of this quite unique place.

Meeting my friend, Ali, helped me to learn of a different side of Bahrain yet again. A place that in so many ways is like Saudi Arabia, but in many more ways stands apart as a nation in its own right. Ali invited myself and our friend, Mido, to visit there during Eid, after Ramadan, and the weekend before my return to work after the summer break.

Traditional Bahraini bread oven

Bahrain is located off the eastern coast of Saudi Arabia, about an hour's drive from Dammam. It is made up of an archipelago of islands. It is often seen as simply being one island, but in fact there are 3 main islands and many smaller ones, making 49 in total. The main island is home to the capital city, Manama, and a number of smaller cities and towns. A large area of this island remains unpopulated, however a reasonable proportion of the coast line is subject to land reclamation. The next island, Muharraq Island, contains the city of Al Muharraq, and is also home to the Airport. On the other side of the main Island is a smaller one yet again, which I am told belongs to one of the Sheiks and is not accessible to the general public. A section of it however does provide a base for the 25 km (16m) causeway that links Bahrain to the Arabian Peninsula and Saudi Arabia. The other Islands host a few resorts, or are home to sea birds and other local fauna. Some of these islands are tidal as well, so are only accessible or visible at low tide.

The name Bahrain literally means Two Seas (Bahr - Seas; ain (ithnain)- two). There is some debate as to whether this refers to the different waters surrounding it, or to the mixture of fresh and salt water caused by the natural underground springs.

Looking back towards Manama from the archeological site beneath the fortress

What struck me most about Bahrain is the eagerness to hold on to and celebrate its past. It openly acknowledges its pre-Islamic past and is home to a world heritage site, upon which over 4000 years of human civilisation can be traced. Old and new sit comfortably side by side, and the city, with its towering buildings provides an impressive backdrop to ancient ruins.

Even when visiting some of the smaller towns it was bizarre, yet encouraging to see that houses are built amongst ancient burial mounds. While not all of these mounds remain intact, it is now illegal to destroy or steal from them. Even more impressive about this is that there are over 180,000 of these mounds which are home to the remains of the ancient Dilmun (Dilmoon) People.

These people worshipped very differently and offered snake sacrifices, which are now often displayed in small pottery jars.

The land of Dilmun was famous throughout the ancient world as a place of great bounty. It is even considered a site of the original Garden of Eden. Even today, fresh water springs are used to water farms where a great quantity of crops are grown. These springs, under the sea bed, have been crucial in the pearling industry also. The land of Dilmun also features in the Epic of Gilgamesh, a story about a man on his search for immortality.

A section of the Portuguese fortress

The islands have been occupied many times over the centuries, and each brought a taste of its own culture and built over the remains of what was there before. This is why, under the mound where the large Portuguese fortress is built, there are the remains of no less than another 3 cities to be found, one on top of the other.

Looking back through time.
The layers of cities built on this one site.

Bahrain, while an Islamic State, ruled by a Sunni Muslim Royal Family, is home to people of many religions and they are free to worship as they choose. The largest proportion of Muslims on the island are Shia, however in general, there seems so be a good relationship between both sects. While the Arab Spring has affected the area, the complaint is not against the fellow Muslim walking down the street, but to the autocratic nature of the Government, and the desire to choose, or be represented as the majority people group in the area. While I am not fully familiar with the ins and outs of the situation or political status of the country, or the Arab Spring I am unqualified to make comment. I can relate in some way however to how some back home may feel about being in a nation ruled by a political party they did not choose.

Mosque and Church side by side

Inside the Church

The fact seems to be that people can worship as they like. We visited a Church building where services were held daily, in multiple languages, and regardless of denomination. The Church Building was beside a Mosque. I am told that Bahrain has a Christian Ambassador and a Jewish one also. It is great to see that in this nation, people are able to live side by side in peace, with respect for one another. We pride ourselves in this in the Western World, but I do not think I have seen it working in quite the same way as it does here. It was quite beautiful.

The Grand Mosque

We visited the Grand Mosque and were given a tour, which was a fascinating experience. This incredible building which had clearly been build to the Glory of God was a place of intense peace, and was a sign again, of Bahrain's ability to bring the world together. Each of the materials had been sought out from across the globe. Hundreds of glass lights from France, a huge carpet from Scotland, and stained glass from Iran I believe, with many materials from other countries also.

Calling the Addan

We were guided by a lady who was very keen to help us to understand the reason and the purpose for what we saw, and was eager that I left with a deeper understanding of Islam, though not in a pressurised way, simply out of a desire to inspire unity. She encouraged us to take photographs and to walk around and explore. Up until this point, I had not been into a Mosque (though having lived in Saudi for a year). There has always seemed to be a sense of forbidding, that I wasn't seen as clean enough. This Mosque went to great lengths to make sure I felt welcome.

Breathtaking Chandelier

Elsewhere, it was also great to find artists' and craftsmen's cooperatives. There is a great desire to hold on to traditional skills. Pottery, chest making, weaving, amongst other things. Bahraini people seem proud of these skills while in Saudi Arabia it often seems (though I could be wrong) that many of these tasks are beneath them. It was even great to see some beautiful art work and paintings. There is a real recognition of the creative gifts and talents that we have been given, and a desire to use them to enhance our lives.

Local Pottery

In Bahrain, people dress as they choose, worship as the choose, pray as and when they choose, and nobody is offended. People live with a mutual respect for one another and their beliefs and choices. It was great to simply go for coffee and not be afraid that we might be asked to leave, or be locked in at prayer time, and it was encouraging to see women, wearing abaya and niquab, walking down the street with women in jeans and a tshirt or blouse. Women making the choice to cover their hair but dress comfortably, yet modestly in conventional clothes.

It was great to be driven by a Bahraini taxi driver (as you have to be Bahraini to drive a taxi there), and to see Bahrainis washing cars and waitering in restaurants. People realising that for their economy and national identity to flourish as the oil diminishes, they need to all pull together and play their parts.

After a year in Saudi Arabia I must say that I love the country. I think there is so much potential here, and that the hospitality and friendship I have received has been outstanding. When I visited Bahrain, I realise it was for a brief moment, and that the country is not with out its problems (yet neither is Scotland). But what I did see, was a people who are willing to reflect, see another point of view, and who realise that diversity and different opinions are not a threat, but are in fact, a strength.

Bahrain are proud of their ancient past, their Islamic past, their cultural heritage and their vibrant, modern nation. It was a pleasure to visit and I fully intend to return to learn more about this fascinating place.